Step off a leafy Esquilino street and through the huge old doors to find this fourth-floor apartment in all of its whitewashed glory. Pristine and modern, the home is touched with earthy tones—olive and celery greens, taupe and leafy houseplants. All of your mod-cons are neatly concealed by a veneer of light oak, so you can keep your attention firmly on devouring the welcome wine and snacks provided by your host. Turn right out of your building and take the ten-minute waltz over to Parco del Colle Oppio for its ancient ruins and prime views of the mighty Colosseum. When it’s time for dinner, you couldn’t be better placed to sample authentic Italian grub. Your home is surrounded by family-run bakeries, ristorantes and those all-important gelaterias.