Rome is often thought of in terms of narrow, winding alleyways and hidden passages. However, the grand scale of this home flies in the face of that perceived wisdom. It occupies two whole floors of an imposing villa (there's also a separate flat that you can add into the mix) in the residential district of Monteverde, an affluent area a little detached from the tourist crowds. While the house is undoubtedly impressive, it feels like a well-loved family home rather than a museum showpiece, which lends it a relaxed atmosphere that we loved. If you want to go in search of the action, you're around a twenty-minute walk from trendy Trastevere. This pretty pocket of Medieval Rome is packed with neighbourhood trattorias serving impeccable food, stylish speakeasies with intriguing cocktail menus, and all manner of vintage and antique boutiques where you can lose a couple of hours.