On one of Lisbon’s historic, slanty streets where pastel buildings are trimmed with wrought-iron balconies this apartment is a rare gem. It’s in the Santa Catarina neighbourhood, a short walk from the fado bars and atmospheric restaurants of Bairro Alto and the museums and historic sights of Chiado. The azulejo-tiled exterior radiates old Lisbon charm but, stepping inside, you’re greeted with a 21st-century haven of calm. Of course, the original windows, herringbone floor and a wall of bookshelves packed with novels feel like classic Lisbon, but the plush lemon-yellow sofa, glass-topped dining table and pendant lamps are a modern update. Old french doors lead to the back garden, which is a rarity this close to Lisbon’s centre. Here you’ll find a patio for alfresco dining as olive and fig trees grow in pots. The covered lounge area is our favourite thing about this home, where rattan furniture sits against a beautiful, hand-painted tile fountain, typical of the 18th century.